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迪奧涉嫌抄襲中國馬面裙，被罵上熱搜！“文化挪用”為何屢屢引發眾怒？

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又是迪奧！繼瞇瞇眼事件后，迪奧再一次引發熱議。

事情是這樣的：有漢服愛好者發現，迪奧新上市的一件標價2.9萬元的裙子，與中國傳統服飾馬面裙的設計非常相似。

奧官網介紹里稱這條半裙采用標志性的Dior廓形，是一款全新的優雅時尚的單品，并未說明靈感來源。

這樣的表述引發諸多網友不滿，隨后，迪奧抄襲相關話題沖上熱搜第一。

對于不了解漢服的同學們來說，可能還不知道什么是馬面裙，但是你肯定見過，它在古裝劇中的出鏡率非常高。

馬面裙，又名馬面褶裙，中國古代漢族女子主要裙式之一，前后里外共有四個裙門，兩兩重合，外裙門有裝飾，內裙門裝飾較少或無裝飾，馬面裙側面打裥，裙腰多用白色布，取白頭偕老之意，以繩或紐固結。

The Chinese horse-face skirt, or ma mian qun, dates back to the 10th century Song dynasty and wascommonly worn by women during the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties.

中國的馬面裙可以追溯到10世紀的宋朝，在明朝(1368-1644)和清朝(1644-1911)時期，女性普遍穿著馬面裙。

The wraparoundgarmentfeatures pleated fabric on either side when draped. Four slits down the sides make it suitable for horse-riding, though its name refers not to the animal but to defensive structures jutting out over city walls in ancient China.

這種包裹性的服裝在垂下時兩邊的織物都有褶皺。兩側的四個裙門使它適合騎馬，盡管馬面裙中的馬不是指動物，而是指中國古代城墻上突出的防御性建筑。

所以，馬面并非大家認為的牛頭馬面的那個意思，是城墻體系中一種用于防御的結構，也叫臺城。

The skirt was very popular in the Ming Dynasty from empress to ordinary people. According to different classes and occasions, the material, pattern, and color of horse face skirts are different.

在明朝，從皇后到普通人，這種裙子都非常流行。根據不同的階級和場合，馬面裙的材料、圖案和顏色都有所不同。

For example, Princess Diana wore a red silk satin embroidered horse face dress, which in China indicated a girls vision for a happy marriage, 40 years ago in her first royal dinner after engagement.

例如，戴安娜王妃40年前在訂婚后的第一次皇家晚宴上穿了一件紅色絲緞繡花馬面裙，在中國，這表示一個女孩對幸福婚姻的憧憬。

迪奧不是唯一使用馬面裙元素的西方品牌。

早在2010年，另一品牌香奈兒（Chanel）的早秋手工坊系列，就推出一系列以中國為靈感的服裝，其中包括以品牌標志性粗花呢面料制作的套裝搭配剪短的馬面裙。但該系列名字就叫巴黎——上海，就連走秀發布也是在上海完成的。

The horse-face skirt has drawn the attention of French fashion houses before, but with due recognition of the source of inspiration.

馬面裙以前也曾引起過法國時裝公司的注意，但這家公司對其靈感來源給予了應有的認可。

Chanel’s 2010 Paris-Shanghai collection was inspired by elements from Chinese culture and included a shortened horse-face skirt.

香奈兒2010年巴黎-上海系列受來自于中國文化的元素啟發，該系列中包括一條短款的馬面裙。

而此次迪奧翻車最主要的原因，是使用了中國的傳統服裝元素卻絕口不提，反而稱其為品牌標志性廓形。

而它所謂的這種標志性廓形，是指上小下大的A字型（A-Line）。在當代時裝史上，一般認為這樣的A字型服裝是由迪奧品牌的創始人克里斯蒂安·迪奧（Christian Dior）于1955年開創。

很快，該事件在網上引發了熱議。

A major concern of some Hanfu lovers is that, given Diors global influence, its global consumers take it as a Dior original, Chinese horse face skirt would instead to be taken as a "copycat" by some people who are not familiar with Chinese culture, which is confusing.

一些漢服愛好者的一大擔憂是，鑒于迪奧的全球影響力，其全球消費者將其視為迪奧的原創，中國的馬面裙反而會被一些不熟悉中國文化的人視為山寨，這會混淆視聽。

In response, a Weibo history blogger posted: I hopecopyrightlawyers and experts from cultural preservation units will jointly evaluate this matter and pay attention to its foulness. This is not justplagiarism.

對此，一位微博歷史博主發帖稱：希望版權律師和文保單位的專家共同評估此事，關注這件事里的貓膩。這不僅僅是抄襲。

Some others take the issue as "cultural exchanging" rather than copycatting. They said that the issue is a lesson Chinese people should learn from so that in the future we would invest more to promote our own culture.

還有一些人認為這個問題是文化交流而不是抄襲。他們說，這個問題是中國人應該吸取的教訓，今后我們應該投入更多資金來保護我們自己的傳統文化。

在這場爭議中，有一個詞被反復提到，就是文化挪用（cultural appropriation）。

那么，你知道到底什么是文化挪用呢？

In the halls of academia, discourse regarding culturalappropriationarose in the late 1970s, sparked by the publication of Edward Said’s famous book Orientalism.

20世紀70年代末，愛德華·賽義德的著作《東方主義》的出版引發了學術界關于文化挪用的討論。

In this work, Said explored how, in the West, cultural notions of the orient invariably aided and abetted the material and cultural plundering of Asia.

在這部作品中，薩義德探討了在西方，關于 "東方 "的文化概念是如何助長對亞洲的物質和文化掠奪。

Cultural appropriation refers to the use of objects or elements of a non-dominant culture in a way that reinforcesstereotypes or contributes to oppression and doesnt respect their original meaning or give credit to their source.It also includes the unauthorized use of parts of their culture (their dress, dance, etc.) without permission.

文化挪用指的是以強化刻板印象或助長壓迫的方式使用非主流文化的物品或元素，并且不尊重其原始意義或不對其來源給予肯定。文化挪用的概念中還包括未經許可使用其文化的一部分（他們的服飾、舞蹈等）。

Cultural appropriation is the social equivalent of plagiarism with an added dose of denigration.Its something to be avoided at all costs, and something to educate yourself about.

文化挪用相當于社會上的剽竊行為，還加上了詆毀的成分。這是應該不惜一切代價避免的事情，也是應該警醒自己不應當做的事情。

類似的事情在國外也不少。每逢有明星踩雷，都少不得被批評。

Rapper Cardi B created a stir on social media when she posed as the Hindu goddess Durga for a photoshoot. The singer was called out for cultural appropriation for the photo that saw her with 10 arms and holding a shoe in her hands.

說唱歌手卡迪·B在社交媒體上引起了轟動，因為她假扮印度女神杜爾迦拍照。照片中，她她有10條胳膊，手里拿著一只鞋，被指責為文化挪用。

Multi-Grammy award-winning singer, Adele hit social media trends recently but sadly, it wasnt for her music. The singer posted a picture of herself from the Notting Hill Carnival in London, dressed in a Jamaican-flag string bikini top and hair tied up in Bantu knots. While fans showered her with love for her stunning transformation, there were several others who accused her of cultural appropriation and criticised her for trying to use an Afro hairstyle.

多次獲得格萊美獎的歌手阿黛爾最近在社交媒體上大放異彩，然而并不是因為她的音樂。這位歌手發布了一張她在倫敦諾丁山狂歡節上的照片，她身穿牙買加國旗串聯的比基尼上衣，頭發被綁成班圖結。雖然粉絲們對她的驚人轉變充滿了喜愛，但也有一些人指責她的文化挪用，批評她試圖使用非洲人的發型。

Kim Kardashian had to brave a similar storm in April when she donned a maang-tikka. The star was accused of appropriating Indian culture when she shared the pictures on her Instagram handle. "My culture isn’t your ‘aesthetic’ or ‘style’, so please show some respect," a social media user said while slamming the star.

今年4月，金·卡戴珊也不得不面對類似的風暴，她模仿印度女性在額頭上佩戴了飾品。當她在Instagram上分享這些照片時，被指控挪用印度文化。我的文化不是你的‘審美’或‘風格’，所以請尊重一點，一名社交媒體用戶在抨擊這位明星時說。

截止目前，迪奧并未對此事作出回應。

While the skirt can no longer be found on its mainland China site, and was marked as sold out on the Hong Kong site, it is still available in the city’s physical Dior stores for HK$30,000 (US$3,820).

雖然這條裙子在中國大陸的網站上已經買不到，在香港的網站上也被標記為售罄，但在香港的迪奧實體店仍然可以買到，售價為3萬港元(合3820美元)。

This is not the first time that Dior – part of the world’s largest luxury group, LVMH – has sparked controversy in China.

這并不是世界上最大的奢侈品集團LVMH旗下的迪奧第一次在中國引發爭議。

Last year, it took down a photo at a Lady Dior show in Shanghai after it was criticised for perpetuatingstereotypesand smearing Asian women with its portrayal of spooky eyes and a gloomy face.

去年，迪奧撤下了在上海舉行的Lady Dior 展上的一張照片，因為這張照片被批評為延續了刻板印象，并以詭異的眼睛和陰沉的臉的形象抹黑亞洲女性。